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Preparation
The first thing which must be done is to clean and restore
the teak to its natural state.
At Marine Detailer we believe in accomplishing this in the
gentlest way possible. In some cases a thorough cleaning with
laundry detergent and chlorine bleach will do the job. If
more drastic measures are called for we have the experience
to safely use oxalic or hydrochloric acid to deep clean.
If you are doing this yourself the main thing to remember
is that anything remaining from a previous product will interfere
with the bonding of the new coating. This can be anything
from a minor color shift to causing the new to not stick and
actually peal away from the surface.
As with any paint, lacquer, or varnish, it is the preparation
that sets the professional results apart from the wanna-be
attempts. If you figure on about a 75%/25% ratio for preparation
to application you should be pretty close.
Now the choices begin.
Teak Oil
Teak oil is one of the oldest and in many ways easiest
methods of maintaining a natural look to teak.
More choices, linseed or tung oil,with various additives,
including pigments, UV filters, and mildew retardants.
Gives the wood a matte finish without shiny spots. Requires
recoating periodically, 1-3 months depending on exposure factors.
While teak oils, when properly applied and maintained resist
and displace water they do not completely eliminate it's getting
into the wood. (works well but requires frequent maintenance
or will tend to turn black and degrade rapidly)
Teak Sealer
Teak treated with sealer is more water resistant
than if treated with teak oil, has a more uniform appearance,
and doesn't tend to turn black. (when wood is well prepared
and the oil applied correctly it will last up to a year between
application)
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